A 'little?' blog of the trip my brother in law, Stuart Brand and myself, did around Ireland, with the trials and tribulations of running a near 30 year old bike.
The usual drinking/eating/wandering that tends to take up most of the 2 hour crossing then ensued. We caught up with the other two guys on bikes after lunch, they hailed from Carlisle area and intended to blatt down to Cork and start to follow the WAW in a Northerly route. After a chat and them realising that there was a good day's ride at motorway speeds down to Cork. They decided to match our selves by heading for Donegal and working their way South. They were camping, on spec. it seems, I was able to advise them of the camp site at the Benone complex having used it on numerous occasions over the years, after that they were on their own. They were intending to use the ferry at McGilligan point to cross to ROI, we heard later, it only runs on a Saturday & Sunday now, hard luck guys!
Stuart and I planned our daily routes out back in February, There is a lot of info on all the 'must see points' along the route, but very little on the route its self. Anyway, we opted to follow the most nearest to the coast roads, all the way down the length of Ireland. It was obvious on the first day that its well-recognised as a tourist attraction with the 'WW (s) or WW (N)' sign symbols being evident. We flowed our own route though, because if there were no recognised WAW viewing points in the area, then the road signage directed you to the most direct route. In our eye's that wasn't following the WAW, so we carried on. With hundreds of viewing points on the WAW, we picked and chose which ones we stopped for. They became so repetitive unfortunately that one beach or glen looked pretty much like another.
One thing that became evident early on, was the conditions of the roads in the ROI, they were amazing! Compared to what we generally have in the UK once you deviate from the well-worn routes (not that many of them are still decent) and the road shoulders are all crumbling away and countless potholes, in the ROI even the single track roads with 20-40% of the centre of the track all green grass, there are still no potholes and the road shoulders are as good as when they were set. However, it was noticeable as the days went by and the further South we went, some short areas of greater wear and tear did become apparent, namely the southern end of Galway and the more Northern area of Kerry. Remember this was all related to mostly single track roads, not what we might term a C or B class road.
Generalities: - There is a lot of investment been poured into ROI, which matches the feedback that's been relayed to the UK of the European investment over the past 3 decades. From North to South, on all the remoter parts of the country, there has been a flurry of feverish building. Each plot being about ¼ - 1/3 acre with a single dwelling ranging, it would seem from 3 to 6 bedrooms with one to three garage facilities. However any sign of life in the majority of them is non-existent. We noticed, on our first Sat/Sun, how big an increase there was in traffic on the single track roads and assumed that it was due to most of them being holiday/second homes for folk that worked in the more populated areas. We were discussing it one evening with our host at a hostel we were booked into (The Lookout, highly recommend, they offered a free taxi service to the local town for a meal or drink, whatever you may wish, just call when you wish to be picked up again.) her and her partner are German nationals that've been in ROI for around 8 years. From what she related, most of the empty properties are all now owned by the banks/financial institutions. When the Banking crisis erupted a few years back, most people were left high and dry with no chance of raising capital to continue to finance their properties and therefore ended up having to relinquish their keys to the banks. Hence why the biggest proportion of them all are just sitting empty.
I have to admit, I didn't get as much as a twitch from the bike for the first 10 days. I did manage to drop it twice! though. Once when I missed the pile of gravel I was sitting on at a T junction on a single track, went to pull away and as I laid it over to the right, whoosh and I was sitting on the offside bump stop. Of course, I had an audience of 3 vehicles arrived from nowhere watching, as we wrestled it back upright, disengaged the gear and wheeled it to the side. Second time was just a lack of leg length or to slow in shuffling far enough across the saddle. I was doing a U turn in the road to re trace our track back to a missed turning. The road plus the pavement width of about 600mm seemed doable. Road empty, haul it over a wee squirt to rise the pavement kerb, however, the back wheel didn't rise the kerb, dragged in the gutter bringing the bike further over and leaving me 4 inches short on touching the ground, more than enough to take it past the point of no return. I must congratulate the Irish though, both the car that was now alongside me heading the way I had originally been going and the works van immediately behind it were both stopped, doors flung open and the drivers grabbing for whatever they could find to help return the bike upright again. I had to ask them to take a second while I got my left leg over to the downed side of the bike. Front wheel still on the pavement near the kerb, back wheel still in the gutter. I knew I had to get it in neutral in order to get both wheels back on the road again or I'd be stranded with an up righted bike that would then have the saddle way higher than normal to get a leg over, side stand on the far side with no chance of trying to get it down, anyway with some grunts and groans my budding assistants seemed to back off a tad more till I got the front wheel back into the gutter too, re mount and steady everything to allow my traffic jam to disperse with many platitudes of thanks to my able assistants they re-joined their own vehicles and the traffic flowed past again. It seemed like an eon till I had enough of a gap to pull out and return to the junction I should have taken. Which, surprisingly was a tight U turn, up a 40° incline to the right, daunting after what I'd just survived, but executed like a pro with teeth gritted tight together!
On the 11th day, I pulled up at a narrow road junction to be engulfed in a cloud of steam 'sugar' said I, or a similar expletive. (A wee explanation, single track was exactly that with passing places, a wide track was one where a car and a bike could pass without the need of a passing place, a narrow road was like a track and a half, where two cars could pass with both having their nearside wheels half on the road half on the grass.) Anyway, Stuart arrives and I point out the steam from mine, he said he'd noticed it for the previous few bends. We wheeled it to the road side to allow it to start cooling down. While we waited, a 74 year old Irish gent, by the name of Tony, pulled up in his car to see if he might render any assistance. We got some of his recent life story and he insisted I took a scribbled note of his phone number, to give him a call if he could be of assistance as he only lived a short distance away. I had to smile as he drove off, he had a sticker on the back of his car which said, 'Jesus Saves, Mosses Invests'.
Anyway, on with the cooling saga, the expansion tank was still fine for level. Hmm, I knew they had a radiator cooling van operated from a thermostat in the radiator, these have been susceptible to failure from what I'd read. OK we harvested a bit of non-essential wire, got the fan running permanently with the ignition on and by the time we were ready to set off it was back down to a low normal on the gauge. Reasoning behind a possible fan issue being that we were lucky to be hitting 50kph most of the time, it was much warmer being as we were roughly level with London so thought a failure of the cooling fan giving added assistance may be the cause as the expansion tank level looked healthy. OK, we set off again, temp started to rise again, any downhill sections I'd drop it into neutral and let it freewheel, temp would start dropping again. So we coaxed it on for a few miles till it started to touch the red band again, time for another halt and re-evaluate. Again, thoughts migrate now to a possible stuck closed thermostat. Ok we're back in another lay-by, start stripping off the Tupperware to gain access to the thermostat housing. On an ST, you have to work from the bottom up, as each removed panel section then reveals more hidden fixings. Off course the stat housing is at the top of the radiator just below the screen level. Anyway, using Stuart's contortion-ate hands, wrists and arms we succeed in revealing the stat housing right beside the rad pressure cap. It had cooled down sufficiently that we decided to 'breenge' in and split the housing, only 2 x M6 bolts, we succeeded, what was more disturbing was the lack of any coolant seeping from the joint. Split it fully, no coolant. Removed the rad cap and a green deposit of antifreeze colour like the expansion tank colour was evident, but 'nae watter'! The expansion tank still had its full quota of water so obviously a blockage of some form, somewhere in the system was stopping it being of any use at all. Onwards as they say, the thermostat went in the top box. A 500ml bottle of water that I carry was then emptied into the radiator we rebuilt the Tupperware with the exception of the top and leg area inset section which got strapped to the back of the bike, this left us easy access to the rad cap and adding more water as may be necessary. During this time another concerned Irishman in a 4x4 had pulled in to see if he could render assistance, we thanked him profusely for his concern but assured him we were hopeful that finding a source of more water in the next few miles, may be our only need. He left in one direction as did we in the opposite direction. Again, fluctuating downhill freewheeling allowing small reductions in temperature and trying not to generate to much heat with higher revs we swallowed up a few more miles. We decided by this time to deviate from our planned route and just try to make it to that evenings B&B. I spotted an antique'y type place still open, pulled over in the hope they may be kind enough to fill my empty 500ml water bottle. They explained that the don't have plumbed water on the premises but so long as it was not for drinking, the proprietor would fill the bottle from a large container he had in the back of the shop. He dully reappeared with a 'cloudy' substance in the bottle. The next time the temp started to stay near the red, we again stopped, let it cool and added the next 50ml worth. This eventually got us to a town with a convenience store where Stuart duly purchased a 2 litre bottle of water. While we were awaiting it cooling down, who appears at the same store, but Tony! Calling in for his Sunday papers which he agreed, kept him going all week with all the various supplements they contained. We updated him on our current state and advised him, we were hopeful, with added water, we would be able to continue our journey. He bade us farewell again, and once it had cooled down sufficiently, in went a further 1L of water. From then on, it never left the low normal indicated range that it's generally sat at since I got the bike.
Stuart had kept in touch with that evening's B&B, keeping them appraised of our bike problem and enquiring as to whether there was any eatery's in the area we might get to. The B&B Castle View, was on an island with a raised causeway offering unimpeded access no matter what the tide was, it certainly did have a view of a local castle that was under restoration. Again our hostess surpassed herself, providing, tea, scones, some ham, tomato's and cheese for our evening meal, just what we needed!
Day 12, the following day, was to see us complete the WAW within about an hour of our day's journey, then followed, another 230+ miles, to Cork, onto Dublin and North just into Northern Ireland for our last and 13th days hop of 75 miles up to Larne for the midday ferry. All we needed was some luck from the cooling system. Most of the riding speeds were going to be on motorways, fast continuous riding, .... would it stand the pace, only time would tell?
We arose the next day, to start our journey for the ferry. Checked the radiator water level, it was about an inch down from the cap level, looked good, added a dribble, just for luck, and off we went. Again, it came up to the low normal and sat there. A mix of slow roads and motorways as we made our way towards Belfast and beyond to head up to the P&O Larne Ferry. First indication I had was a reluctance for the bike to restart on the button having stalled it at a junction at one point, a second attempt and it fired and we're on the road again. I was too busy concentrating on the temp gauge, I hadn't noticed that the voltage meter wasn't showing its normal charging voltage. I came to a halt at a set of traffic lights on a major roundabout, Stuart had got through, but I wasn't worried as we were now following the signs for Larne and I would easily catch him up again. Then, it stalled, again, an extremely weak response to the starter button, volt meter down to around 6-7 volts, not looking good. I pushed it onto a wide paved area in the centre of the roundabout, called Stuart on his head set and explained the predicament. He was going to spin around and come back to find me.
When Stuart arrived beside me on the roundabout, he proceeded to strip his seats etc. to gain access to his battery while I stripped of my seat and side panel to get access to mine. The wire I'd used for the radiator stat bypass, was one of the lengths of the jump set. By now, fairly certain that the fan running constantly was no longer a requirement, I de frigged that and re assembled as a jump lead. Wired the fork ends direct to my battery, Stewart clipped the crock leads to his and froom! Up and running again, however the very low voltage reading after we disconnected Stuart's battery, didn't bestow a lot of confidence. Time would tell, indeed it did. But before that, having re-assembled both bikes, sitting awaiting a break in the traffic that we could slip out into, I pulled in the clutch to nudge it into gear, STALLED! I'D LEFT THE FRIGGING SIDE STAND DOWN!!! Anyway, as the crock clips were clipped to insulation on either side of my rear seat, it was only Stuarts bike that needed re-stripping for another Jump start which is what we did, certain the side stand was fully up and not going to be an issue again, we pulled out into the traffic flow to continue our journey. We managed to within 25 miles of Larne Ferry terminal, when exiting a roundabout, indicated and the bike ignition stuttered every flash of the indicator. 50 yards off the roundabout at 10:30am, I'm sitting on the hard shoulder going nowhere. We decided there was nothing else we could do, Stuart would continue for the midday ferry check in at 11:00am and head for home near Preston, I would call in my breakdown recovery to get me home.
Maybe this should start another chapter! It's likely to take as long to relate as it has so far.
My call to the RAC breakdown number (as I thought it was, noted in my phone) came back with what seemed to be an automated long list of options that I just wasn't hearing with my hearing aids and the continuous passing traffic noise. I phoned my wife Jane, to ask if she could try the number and determine what was being said. While waiting I again checked the phone number, the break down and the claims numbers start with the same digits, I'd scribbled down the claims number instead of the breakdown, which made sense as to what type of claim I may wish to report. Dialled the correct number, gave my reg number, confirmed my name, DOB and address, explained what I thought my issue was and that I would likely need recovered back to my home in Scotland. There started a range of events that got steadily worse.
1045 We'll now find a local patrol to help you. We'll send regular updates by text, so you don't have to call us.
1135 We're sending one of our trusted partners to rescue you. Will be in touch shortly with the details.
I then had a call from their 'trusted partner', enquiring as to what the problem was. I related the same info I'd already advised to the RAC originally. The trusted partner reckoned they could fit a new battery and I'd be on my way! I tried to explain that I was no longer getting any charging to the battery therefore it would be on total loss and I was sceptical as to whether I would even reach the ferry port, 25 miles away, never mind the times you had to start and stop the engine as your went through check-in, security & boarding and similar on disembarkation, with a further 100 miles to travel home.
1235 Sorry if you're still waiting. It's very busy but one of our trusted partners will be with you as soon as possible.
At about 1305, a recovery truck drove past me and carried on up the road. 30 seconds later I get a phone call:- "Hi this is the recovery service, are you on a motorbike just along from the Cross Hotel?" Me:- "Yes, I answered, on the A8 about 25 miles away from Larne." Recovery driver:- "I was told you were outside an hotel in Larne, I've just driven past you" Me:- "In a yellow drop tail truck?" Recovery driver:- "Yes, I'll swing around and come back to you!"
Anyway, I'd already got the bike stripped down to give them access to the battery etc. When the driver pulled up and came back to ask as to what the issue was, I told him what his office had advised as to the likely course of event that would follow their arrival. the driver looked at me with a surprised look, 'I wouldn't know where to start said he, I'm here to get you to the ferry terminal.
So while he readied the truck for loading me, including a fancy little front wheel grabber unit on a bogey to winch the whole bike up onto the platform. I put the bike back together again, decanted my bags and fairing section that were normally stowed on the pillion seat, into his cab, and then assisted as he winched the bike onto the truck.
When we were underway, the driver advised that he knew, Stena Line, no longer allowed any 'push on's' to board their ferries but he wasn't aware what P&O's set up was, as he'd never delivered a vehicle to them. The driver asked if the bike still run ok? I said yes, but not with a dead battery.
Apparently Stena Line now provide the use of a battery booster pack, attached to the vehicle battery, to enable it to be driven on and off of the ferry. We would have to see if P&O had a similar facility.
We arrived at P&O's terminal at about 1410, a ferry was sitting in the port, which turned out to be the 1600 departure for Cairnryan. We entered the passenger terminal and approached the reception desk. I explained what our predicament was and asked if they had any facility for getting me and my bike on and off the ferry. The driver offered his knowledge of how Stena Line operate such a situation with a booster set. I must admit, P&O were exceptional in pulling out all the stops. After a few internal phone calls, they produced a Day Pass for the recovery driver and his vehicle, which gave him access to drive onto the ferry, unload me, and return to shore again. They produced a rescheduled boarding ticket for me from my original mid-day departure booking. By 1515, I was on-board, the bike strapped to the deck and awaiting our 1600 departure time.
One slight delay was caused because they couldn't get the RAC to guarantee that they would have a recovery truck available to meet the ferry at Cairnryan when it docked at 1800. I said I was quite happy to freewheel the bike down the ramp at Cairnryan to free up the ferry deck and save me another round trip to Larne and back!
From when we docked at Cairnryan, I was on the phone to the RAC to find out when the recovery truck was going to appear. That's when the first bomb shell hit. They advised me that my current insurance only covered breakdown cover, no recovery facility. If I wanted to be recovered I would have to pay for it myself, OK, I said go ahead but it needs to happen now! As I have to be disembarked from the ferry. Can I give you my card number for the payment? They replied no, someone will contact you to take the details.
After a further two phone calls I finally got to someone that took my card details.
1834 We'll now find a local patrol to help you. We'll send regular updates by txt.
At about 1915 that evening, still no sign of any recovery truck, I got off before they started loading the outgoing wagons! As the deck hands advised, there was NO way they could allow me to freewheel down as the wagons were being loaded as the whole ramp area bounced up and down continuously. I parked up as directed on the quayside and was given a lift over to the passenger terminal.
1919 We're sending one of our trusted partners to rescue you. Will be in touch shortly with the details.
2019 Sorry if you're still waiting. It's very busy but one of our trusted partners will be with you ASAP.
(Spot the similarities in the above to the previous text communication ....)
At 2200 I again called the RAC, again explaining that I was still now sitting in the passenger terminal at the ferry port with my bike now parked on the quay side as I'd had to physically push it off the ferry myself, awaiting recovery that I'd already paid for, to get me back to my home. This time the call centre operative that answered the call asked me to hold, I blew my top as that had happened on numerous occasions over the day and the line, playing music, would just die. The lass explained to me, that she'd noticed in my recovery history that the contract issued at 1903, to one of their local trusted partners, had been accepted, but with a condition that it would not be till 0800 the following day. She wanted time to speak to her line manager to resolve the issue as obviously no one else had picked up on it as they'd been sending out the automatic text updates. Her line manager came back on the call, agreed there had been an oversight and that she would do all she could to rectify the situation, she was adamant that she would call me back as soon as she had a resolution.
2328 Just to confirm, we've logged you're breakdown and we're working on getting help to you. We'll send regular updates by text, so you don't have to call us.
2340 We're sending one of our trusted partners to rescue you. Will be in touch shortly with the details.
I took a call from the line manager at around midnight, explaining that they were having extreme difficulty in getting a suitable vehicle to get me home. She asked if I would accept getting put in a local hotel overnight and continue the recovery the following day. I agreed, at that time of night I didn't look forward to spending the small hours trying to get comfortable in what amounts to be an airport lounge area with just the same hard seating. She advised that a local trusted partner would come to the ferry port, uplift me and my bike, take me to a local hotel for the night and take my bike into secure storage till the next morning, when they would collect me at the hotel and continue with the recovery.
0041 Sorry if you're still waiting. It's very busy but one of our trusted partners will be with you ASAP.
I was final picked up after 0100, loaded the bike to the truck and then dropped off at a hotel in Stranraer. I'd enquired, when I was dropped off, if the driver knew when I'd be picked up again in the morning. He didn't, he advised that he wouldn't know until the morning, who may be allocated the job of recovering me home. He said if I hadn't heard by the back of 0900, to call the RAC again to find out. I finally made it into bed at 0130, totally shattered!
I rose the next morning, went for breakfast at 0815, at just after 9am, I called the RAC, I was advised that they would have their trusted partner contact me to advise. 10 minutes later I had a call from the trusted partner, advising they would uplift me from in front of the hotel in 10 minutes time. They dully arrived, I got in the truck, checked my other kit was still in the cab and we were on our way home. Finally cut dropped off back home at just after noon on Wednesday the 8th June.
I called my insurance company to find out why I no longer had recovery option on my insurance, as I know I was recovered back home from Edinburgh back in 2015. They dug into all their records. I apparently did have recovery inclusive in the breakdown cover back in 2014 & 15. I was not insured by them again until 2018, at which time the recovery option was an extra and I'd only opted for the basic breakdown cover when I started being insured by them again!
For some unknown reason, I got the following two texts on Thursday the 9th June, they must have been missing me!
1735 We're sending one of our trusted partners to rescue you. Will be in touch shortly with the details.
1834 Sorry if you're still waiting. It's very busy but one of our trusted partners will be with you ASAP.
